Taiwan Quarantine – Day 9

First order of business: bai bai (拜拜), an ancestor prayer/worship that is deeply seeded in Taiwanese culture. There are traditional times when people go to the temple to bai bai such as Ghost Month and Tomb Sweeping. Many Taiwanese practice what is a blend of Buddhism, Confucianism, and Taoism. The gods in the temples can be tied to one or all three belief systems. Additionally, and perhaps more importantly, is the veneration of ancestors. The belief of an afterlife and that one’s ancestors are looking down and over us. Many people have a small ancestor worship space in their homes, usually the highest level of the residence. As my grandmother now has joined the ranks of those passed, now that we are home, it’s our time to bai bai to her.

Updating my to-do list. My magazines are all read through and tossed. Now that I have some movement within a larger property, I want to play around with the macro lens I bought a year ago and never really put to good use.

The house has an old stairmaster. Not a treadmill but still a way to get my steps in. I’m still holding to the 15,000 steps. I was surpassing that number in the hotel but here I have real stairs. Three flights of stairs multiple times daily.

Our relatives left fully stocked fridges in the home. My grandmother was hoarder of food items and the practice continued even after she stopped cooking for us. Mom kicked into cooking mode automatically. As much as I could help out, cooking traditional Taiwanese food just wasn’t my forte so I stuck to cleaning up. Mom is always an amazing cook, self-taught but I rarely had the opportunity to eat her Taiwanese cooking. In the States, the food was adapted to what ingredients were available. Our relatives also left a staple of frozen local specialties like zhong-zi, Chinese sausage, and mantao. I will be eating well.

By now, I’ve dropped a lot of hints about the level of tracking the Taiwanese government put on the quarantined individuals. Bottom line, they are tracking our cellphone signal. Those of use who had foreign numbers had to buy a local SIM card upon landing and attach it to our pre-flight health registration. That registration had to be done before departing our country of origin and includes having to upload our vaccination record.

On Day 3, my phone battery died and I forgot to plug it in the charger before it shut down. Sure enough, by the time the phone was charging and powered back on, the hotel called me. The hotel receptionist called to say they were having trouble reaching my phone and I was momentarily confused. “The phone you are calling to right now?” He said they weren’t able to reach me via the hotel line, which never work since I checked in. With him on the cellphone line, I fiddled around with the cords and plugged the hotel phone back in to confirm receiving a dial tone. We were doing a back and forth dance about phones not being on when the 💡 went off in me. I asked if this was about the fact that my phone battery died just recently? I then heard a chorus of “Ooooh” which keyed me into the likelihood that the police were physically in the lobby talking to the hotel staff. Sure enough, I then heard the hotel receptionist relay my explanation. Oops. 🙈 I got a reminder to keep my phone on *and* charged.

Today, I got the same message I got when I was in the taxi leaving Taipei.. “you have left your residence. Return immediately!” and that left me scratching my head. Given my tendency to drop phones, I have left the phone on a side table in the living room all day, walking over regularly just to make sure I didn’t miss any messages or call. Otherwise the phone has not moved at all. I told myself we’re about to find out how the follow through works here in the countryside.

6:30pm, dogs were barking, the landline ringing. Dad picked up and I could tell there was confusion abound. They asked for my uncle, the registered owner of the home. My father explain he is said individual’s brother-in-law and after some back and forth and yelling on my hearing-loss father’s part, we realized someone was literally standing at the gate and calling from there.

Yup, they sent reinforcements in the form of a solo provincial police officer to check on me. And we didn’t even know how to open the industrial motorized gate. It was already dark so mom was fumbling around for the remote than fumbling around the buttons of the remote to try to open the gate. We must have been a sorry sight. I can’t imagine what was going through the police officer’s mind, overhearing us yelling loudly at each other and trying to talk over one another. If anything, it might have assured him there was no way we violated quarantine by leaving the residence since we clearly simply did not know how to open the gate, let alone go out.

The police officer was surprised to find not one but three of us in quarantine. We explained we had the house to ourselves, my uncle opting to stay in the city. He asked specifically for the status of a phone number. Surprise. It was mine. Dad looked at me and said either “You are in trouble!” or “you are trouble!” He probably meant both! 🤣

We said we never left the residence and my phone, along with person, was home the whole time. In any case, he was already dispatched to check on me so there was no point arguing why their monitoring system thinks I left the residence other than to tell him we were here as required.

No oops on my part! I did nothing wrong! Stupid phone and stupid monitoring system 😜

Taiwan Quarantine – Day 3

Speaking of having no idea which day it is, I noticed the street noise was different this morning. Vehicles drove faster. Peeking out the window, I realized all the businesses around the hotel were closed. It’s Saturday. Well, that’s one way to tell what day it is!

Today, food.

The quarantine hotel provides meals with the rate. Breakfast, lunch, dinner. Not a menu to pick from; they just deliver to your door.

I was pleasantly surprised when the hotel asked if I had any food allergies or dietary restrictions upon check in. Nope, I eat everything. I’m actually lactose intolerant but I suspected that was not going to be a problem here.

Subjective opinion: Taiwanese food is some of the best food in the world. And I have eaten a lot of different cuisines from the questionable item on a stick off a street stall to the Michelin starred establishments. I always gravitate back to traditional Taiwanese fare. Could the fact I grew up on this food influence my opinion? Sure.

Taiwanese breakfasts are best from alleyway food carts. Warm soydrink in rubber band sealed plastic bag with straw sticking out. Scallion pancakes with egg, doused with magical red sauce, rolled up and wrapped in paper. Warm fluffy steamed buns that are pillowy to touch. My uncle laughed at how I gravitate towards “peasant” food. He’s right.. peasant food that has been perfected over four thousand years.

I set my expectations low coming into quarantine. I knew the meals are packaged in carryout containers en mass, and likely will be lukewarm at best by time of delivery. I was going to have to wait until at least the second phase of the quarantine to get better access to the fresh breakfasts.

By day 3, though, we had a niggling suspicion I was being served the hwan-a (foreigner) breakfast. I haven’t seen any rice porridge or buns. Instead, I got sandwiches that resembled attempts to mimic Western fast food. The sandwiches have been atrocious.. criminally atrocious. The coffee is foul, but I knew that already and brought my own press for a reason.

In my grandmother’s obit, I fondly referenced a time Ah-ma went out to buy a hamburger for me to take to the airport. The “burger” had some mysterious unidentifiable patty that makes a McNugget look like fresh meat. It was also doused in some red sauce and shredded pork jerky. It was… disgusting.

In the three plus decades since that memory, Taiwan has advanced and progressed immensely as a society, in technology, in social liberalism, in education, and in food. I’m sorry to report their Western fast food has not progressed since.

Take a look.

  • Day 1: Egg sandwich “panini”? Pork floss (dried shredded jerky),cheese, bacon, and shredded cabbage.
  • Day 2: Almost identical to the sandwich my grandmother gave me ages ago. Unidentifiable fried pork cutlet, egg, strange red sauce, and single pickle slice.
  • Day 3: There’s no other way to describe it other than calling it a Filet o Fish with cheese.
  • Day 4: I’ll throw it in here anyway. Another sandwich with mince pork, single lettuce, more red sauce, ok, I just can’t anymore. Enjoy the view

Meanwhile, my parents were eating rice porridge, true Taiwanese sandwich, tunip cake, and scallion pancake!!!

What.

The.

Heck.

My faith in Taiwanese food is fading fast. The suggestion that I may be given the foreigner menu was a lightbulb moment. It explains so much. It is classic Taiwanese attempt to cater to foreign palettes with their misconceptions of what Americans (or anyone else) eat for breakfast.

Cue in Taiwan aunties to the rescue. I will own my being spoiled. I had been babysat by almost every single aunt at some point on both sides of the family in my toddler years. My aunts know what I like. Since Day 2, I haven’t eaten the provided sandwiches. I would take a bite just to confirm it is bad but say I tried it. My breakfasts consists of fresh seasonal fruits and fresh bakery goods like 菠蘿麵包 (bolo or pineapple bun), finished off with strong black coffee.

The other meals are more or less expected 便當 (lunch box) fare. It’s kind of been a game of whats-in-the-bag at meal delivery time, comparing pictures of our meals between our two hotels. There is a protein, usually chicken or pork, a couple of vegetable sides, a few pieces of tofu, and a TON of rice. By lunch on day one, I started forgoing the rice altogether. Between being confined to a room and the volume of food coming in, I just don’t need that many carbs.

One thing lacking in the hotel meals that is critical to this family’s nutrition. Fresh fruits. The quarantine approach is minimal contact and minimal handling. I suspect fruit didn’t fit neatly in this category, even though it is a huge part of Taiwanese diet. Our uncle and aunt network have been dropping off seasonal local fruits since day 1. Guava, Asian pear, wax apples, oranges, bananas, apples, cherry tomatoes, so on.

For those who don’t have the same robust family network, Uber Eats, Food Panda offer food delivery. The hotel would drop off at our door for us. On the morning of day 1, I started researching the options in case. It isn’t necessary anymore, but Dad’s curiosity was piqued. He wanted to order food delivery to just experience it. Why not, right? May as well have fun with the experience.

The only meal that has been accompanied by a drink consistently has been breakfast. The hotel provided a whole case of water bottles in the room. The first two days I got coffee. Day 3, milk tea. I far prefer the milk team, lactose intolerance be damned. It is a popular drink here in Taiwan and please give me what the Taiwanese make regularly.

My fav is bubble milk tea (“boba” in the US).. I’ve been drinking that since before Americans can handle looking at seaweed without making a grossed out face. My uncle thinks my name is synonymous with bubble milk tea and usually had at least one cup sitting the car whenever he picked me up upon my return to Taiwan. And I got bubble milk tea with Day 3 dinner! Yum. Breakfast sandwiches forgiven and forgotten.

My parents asked if I got a care package? Eh? No? Taipei City had sent care packages to Taiwanese residents going into quarantine. As a foreigner, I have no such gift. Their package consists of the following: three-pack of ramen, bag of face masks, crackers, oatmeal, etc. One each per person… my parents have six packs of ramen between the two of them. I’ll stick to the Auntie network, thanks.

(Care package, courtesy of Taipei City)
(Puzzle progress on Day3)

Taiwan Quarantine – Day 1

One night down. Yesterday was about settling in physically. Today was all about the orientation and bureaucracy. Going through the airport, I was expecting a lot more scrutiny, and other than checking the fact that my health form was updated with my Taiwanese mobile number and taking a covid test, it didn’t feel like they were monitoring closely. Today, that impression got corrected.

I woke up with grand plans. I had in my mind, broken the day into one hour chunks. One hour for each meal, one of each set of activities including working out and doing a jigsaw puzzle, one each for writing and remote work, etc. The whole plan was put into motion at 7am when breakfast was delivered and lasted until 10am.

Breakfast was *huge*. A bento of fried pork cutlet on rice. A “panini” of sorts with a bag of six French fries and bitter coffee. Sigh. Anyone in the know knows that Taiwanese breakfasts are DA BOMB. And this was my first meal in Taiwan? By dinner, I figured out that the bento was probably from last night. I checked in minutes after dinner was delivered and assumed I missed out. They must have sent it up later and I just never checked.

(Yes. 7 fries.)

The hotel dictated the following schedule:

  • Report body temperature every 9am/9pm
  • Daily meals served 07:00~07:30, 12:00~12:30, 18:00-18:30
  • Trash collection at 16:00~16:10.

We love our boxes in Taiwan. This is what the view from my door looks like. A box for the garbage drop. And a box for the delivery pick up. I guess it’s better than putting our food on the ground. Notice the plastic covering in *everything.* Pre-pandemic, Asians also have the tendency to cover things they care about with plastic. Many of us remember our thighs sticking to some plastic cover to a leather couch on a hot day. Pandemic? Easier just to show the pictures. In the room, my light switches, phone, tv remote are similarly covered. I’m surprised they didn’t figure out a way to wrap the treadmill panel with plastic wrap.

I started so well:

  • 7 ~ 8am: breakfast
  • 8 ~ 9am: break out a jigsaw puzzle
  • 9am: record and report temperature
  • 9am ~ 10am: research food order options for fresh fruit
  • 10am ~ …. : one hour stretch routine, courtesy of Jana Webb on YouTube.

At 9:30am, I missed a phone call. And in the middle of my stretching is when I got completely sidetracked. As if the YouTube ads weren’t enough to throw my rhythm off.

First contact was from a Taipei police officer. He introduced me as my Taipei monitor, welcomed me to Taiwan, confirmed my information. The call I missed was from him, so while he didn’t mention the missed call, he was very explicit in his instructions. Keep my phone on at all times. Do no turn it off, do not put it on airplane mode. And please contact him if I experience any COVID symptoms. Yes, sir. Time to check the volume on my ringer!

I thought that was that. Nope. Fifteen minutes later, I got another call from another police officer, this time based in Taichung, the jurisdiction in which my residential quarantine address falls under. This officer had more specific questions. He asked for a local relative contact information. He was worried the relative remote location of my grandparents’ home meant lack of access to food, especially when I wouldn’t be allowed to leave the residence. He also was confused by the two family members I listed as residing in the residence with me during that quarantine, my parents. Reading between the lines, I think he was looking for their paperwork. I passed him their Chinese names and the lightbulb went off in him. He explained he handles foreigners; Taiwanese residents fall under a different department. I found out later he called my uncle to express my concern about my being able to eat while in quarantine. I can already imagine my uncle making it clear I was under the Taiwanese family treatment.. I will never go hungry.

Let’s talk language. I speak what I call “never-go-hungry” Chinglish. My vocabulary is elementary at best and topics I can cover first-layer basic everyday casual conversation and that is it. In social interactions, I would be polite and endear myself just enough to get plied with food and I can shut up and just listen. 😜 In interactions on the street, in stores, at restaurants, I can get by. I don’t understand 100% but I’ll cobble enough words to fumble through transactions. And sometimes I can keep the interaction to the bare minimum to not even alert the other person I understood way less than they realized.

I got the message loud and clear the Taiwan is not joking around on their covid prevention measures. I went from a country where people can barely follow simple instructions of how to wear a mask properly, let alone actually wear one, to a country where I haven’t seen anyone’s nose since boarding the plane for the flight here. No one here is complaining they can’t breathe. Every single person I’ve interacted with not only wore masks and face shields but also gloves and a good number even wear protective gowns.

Besides the fact that I entered on an US passport already flagged myself as a foreigner, I decided to keep most interactions with officials to English. I will offer a words of Mandarin in acknowledgement or in thanks. There is a reason for my choice. While it subjected me to the foreigner treatment (more on that!), it ensured I was assigned police officers who spoke decent English. Words like “quarantine,” “health check,” “covid,” I can learn. But as they start talking faster about procedure, reporting requirements, monitoring, and so on, I want to make sure I understand 100% what is going on. Any misunderstanding may come from their side, but they would know it is a result of honest communication challenges, not any deliberate attempt from me to obfuscate responses or to ignore instructions.

Taiwan’s app of choice is Line, very similar to WhatsApp that we Americans use. My communication with the hotel staff and the Taichung police office is primarily through Line, once we established the initial exchange. With the hotel, my check in was in Mandarin so between Google Translate and Line, I do wonder, while they knew my Chinese isn’t great, if they realize I’m functionally illiterate. Yup, I’ve been using GoogleTranslate to supplement my texting. Thank goodness for remembering enough of the traditional alphabet from Chinese school and pinyin from college to reread any translation before sending. Less change of inappropriate words slipping in!

So somewhere between all the phone calls and listening to Jana Webb yammer on about exhaling and neuromuscular simulation, it was already lunchtime. And right then, I abandoned any pretense of maintaining a schedule. The schedule from the hotel was all the structure I needed.

We are required to report our temperature twice a day. I text my recording to the hotel staff and report on a sheet of paper they left in the room for us. The hotel also left a thermostat… cool. I can’t remember where mine at home went. This will be useful to take back 😁 I need to figure out how to convert to F for future use though! I admit I had to google the body temperature in C for my own bearing.

The whole family is on Line. My parents arrived Taiwan about five hours after me the night before. We were calling each other nonstop all day. What else do I have to do, with most people I stay in touch with me being 13 hours behind! They are staying in a different hotel, so we found ourselves comparing our meals and the differences in room. I won jackpot with the treadmill. They have a nice large balcony to extend the amount of space they can spread out.

We also called in reinforcements. My aunt took requests for things to drop off. And, boy, did she come through the the below care package. Taiwanese aunties for the win!

I abandoned my attempt to schedule the day by lunch. I don’t know how I ever got it in my head I’d stick to a schedule. I never follow regiment, ever. The hotel room door isn’t so magical that I suddenly develop the ability to focus on any one activity for that long. For my puzzle, I didn’t get all the edge pieces in that first hour… so of course I’d keep drifting back to the box to rummage until I could find all the pieces. That would go all day. Tomorrow, I’ll use the approach I normally do a home- a to-do list.

And then there are people who are plain jerks..

I can be frugal, to a fault, although I like to think that has faded with my time overseas, and possibly also with a growing savings account. I’ve been known to cut coupons, wait for the sales.

Thanks to my mom, I even go to supermarkets for price adjustments if something goes on sale a day after I made a purchase. My mom is even more hardcore- she remembers prices and spots mistakes in charges before she even leaves the store.

But, this guy is beyond over the top.. and just a plain jerk, don’t you think? I can understand being surprised by the price.. but should have just stopped with with $4.

email1ad

 

I think I’m in the mood for some Chinese the next time I’m in town.. and willing to leave a $4 tip. $12 if it’s a big order.

Read the full article on Boston.com. Although you gotta admit, the emails really say it all.

 

Postscript: Apparently that article went viral. Follow up:

– Response from the restaurant to the public outcry: Now, that’s just the epitome of class and grace.
Thanks but no thanks.”
– 
Response from the professor: Sometimes, it’s best to just recognize when you’re wrong.
I’m sorry.” 

Happy Thanksgiving 2014

As I wait for the turkey, I reflect on this year. It’s been a roller coaster one.

It has been a big year of change. I concluded my overseas life, at least for now, ending a six year stint. I loved every moment of it. It was one of my lifelong dreams and I’ve accomplished it. I look forward to going home. I miss it. As much great memories as I have living abroad, home is still home.

The move meant changes to my work. Changes to my life. I’m still not fully sure how the changes in my job are going to shake out to be. I decided to let things take its own course when I get back to work in January and not stress too much about it for the time being. It’s a strange feeling, that uncertainty. On the other hand, I’ve had my dream job for years. That’s an accomplishment most people can’t chase down their whole lives. I’ve been truly lucky.

This year has brought about what felt to me to be a greater share of life’s ups and downs. Marriage. Birth. Illness. Death. I’ve celebrated joyous occasions with friends. I mourn in loss of another.

I was diagnosed with PTSD. I lost track. Late last year or early this? Sometime in last winter, basically. I probably knew subconsciously but it was surreal to hear the diagnosis spoken aloud. On one hand, the brought about a resurgence of rage at everything around me. On the other, it was a relief that maybe I can start finding ways to organize, label, and bin this challenge I was now confronted with. I fall into the “wait and see” category for treatment. It’s hard when I’m suspended between moves right now. Routine, I find, is good for me. Ironic when a majority of my life has been the antithesis of routine.

It’s the little things that inspire and ground me. Moments that suddenly ignite excitement and joy. It was a dinner with a befriended Croatian family revitalized my blogging. I gained a new perfect travel partner when I least expected to find one. I found the perfect scent diffuser, coincidentally named Happy, for my home. A bouquet of flowers- when was I last given one? Getting a peck on the cheek from a friend’s daughter, my favorite three-year old girl, brought a smile to my face that lasted days.

Coming home means a new chapter of my life. And I’m finding in that new chapter, an appreciation for and an understanding of the little things. Holidays like Thanksgiving are perfect. I have the time to sit down and count my blessings. Sometimes, we all just need to be reminded.

 

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Restaurant Review: Acadia in Chicago where being that difficult diner doesn’t faze

Since my trip to Sweden a couple years ago, I’ve taken to indulging in fine dining, especially if there’s a chef’s tasting menu.

I’ve also started declaring my lactose intolerance to restaurants when asked about dietary restrictions. I’ve half shrugged off my intolerance for many years. Sure, I’ve cut back on some things. I drink my coffee black, I don’t buy ice cream, I leave out cream when cooking recipes that included it. But I eat cheeses by the fistful, slather full butter shamelessly on my baked bread, and love clotted cream on my scones.

I have been inconsistent in declaring my intolerance when dining out. Too often, the substitutions feel rather lame or incomplete. I am especially conflicted when there is a tasting menu option. I want to experience the chef’s style and vision of what a perfect meal is but I’m afraid being that difficult diner results with hastily modified dishes that make seem lacking, then leaving both the chef and diner unsatisfied. I once waited over 45 minutes for a dessert.. only to get basically half the components of a cake in a “deconstructed” dish. Nice try, but, really? Or how about the one time I got a fruit bowl for dessert.. in a two-starred Michelin restaurant.

Man, I always thought my lactose intolerance was just a minor nuisance. That people who have serious nut allergies or gluten intolerance have it worse. Now I’m not so sure. No, I don’t risk death with accidental ingestion so I can’t compare on that score. Do you realize how much butter and cream goes into those restaurant dishes? The hardest was explaining how I can handle certain types of products but not others. Some assume just because I “cheat” a little, I don’t need any modifications, resulting with so much dairy intake that I become miserable for the rest of the time. Others are so flustered and overly worried that they eliminate all dairy completely, giving me disjointed dishes that often lack a decent sauce.

I splurged for a meal at Acadia restaurant, Chicago. Acadia boasts a Michelin star and it proved to be one of my best fine dining experiences. It’s in a rather odd location. The neighborhood seemed nice, but it wasn’t in a particularly busy area. I’m not familiar with the city too much but it’s surrounded by a retirement community, construction, large open parking lot.

Service was great, but the highlight was the food. The staff acknowledged my lactose restriction from the get go. The kitchen made modifications that demonstrated great understanding of my intolerance. The ice cream was put in a separate bowl but still available for me to choose how much I dared to sample. The one dish with a cream-based sauce, the server poured just a drop for me to taste without having too much. But the real thing is at no point did I feel like I was missing out in any part of the food. Each dish was so well composed, so complete and so fulfilling. And it was one of the best balance of portions in a tasting menu that stuffed me without being at the point of feeling ill.

I liked the fact that they didn’t have a printed tasting menu, acknowledging that dishes changed all the time but especially appreciated the fact that they printed one out at the end of the meal for me to take home as a parting gift.

*******************
The menu:

Canapes:
Lobster Roll
Pemaquid Oyster, Caviar, Cream
Pig Heart Tartare
Duck Crouton
Winter Squash Chawanmushi

HAMACHI
red curry, coconut rice, shiso

NEW BEDFORD SCALLOP
parsley root, salsify, orange, matsutake, mastic

BUTTERNUT SQUASH
root beer, hoja santa, black garlic

VETA LA PALMA LUBINA
spaghetti squash, pork belly, green tea milk, soy caramel

VEAL SWEETBREADS
chestnut, creme fraiche, apple, brown butter balsamic

AUSTRALIAN WAGYU
lobster, artichoke, parisian gnocchi, maitake

PRE-DESSERT
pickled fennel sorbet, apricot jam, candied cocoa nibs

CARAMEL APPLE
pumpkin seed, apple sorbet

*******************

Honestly, I don’t know what a good chunk of those words are :) It was just all yummy.